Lesson 3: Ratios

Woah there! This is a REALLY outdated post. For more current and accurate articles visit my main page.

If you have a beginner’s playbook, you will find a page where it shows the prescribed grade ratios. It is:

Grade 3: 8
Grade 2: 10
Grade 1 : 15
Grade 0: 17

Warning: Math is coming up.
Actually, I have another article to cover that.

In summary, the chances of getting a certain grade from our playbook instructions is this:

Grade 1 : 97%
Grade 2: 91%
Grade 3: 91%

In total, the chance to ride up to grade 3 is .97.91.91=81%

As a guide, here is the possibility of landing a certain copy of a card after drawing 5, mulligan 3, and your starting draw:

num of copies in deck Chance # of copies in deck Chance
1 17.8% 9 85.7%
2 32.8% 10 88.8%
3 45.3% 11 91.3%
4 55.7% 12 93.3%
5 64.3% 13 94.9%
6 71.3% 14 96.1%
7 77.1% 15 97.1%
8 81.9% 16 97.8%

Note that this does not cover drive(mono or twin) checks or anything after the first turn. Math article is coming up soon (Said as of May 11).

So…what do all these numbers mean? As in, what do you determine to put a certain number of something into a deck? Okay, let’s look at 4 copies of a card. Say you put 4 copies of a ride chain, and you want to ride the grade 1 on your first turn. Looking at the chart, 1 out of every 2 games you will get that first ride. Those are actually pretty good odds for the first draw (note to get a GR2 & GR3 needs further calculations). To be honest, anything after 8 copies is guaranteed in a game, and that’s why you put 8 grade 3’s in a deck. 7 is also okay, but 6 is really stretching the limits. As for Grade 2’s, you wouldn’t run any less then 10 and for Grade 1’s, 12 is the minimum. If you keep these guidelines, then you have about 4 extra cards to separate into the different grades.

15 grade 1’s is for me too many, but it’s an acceptable number. Due to having 4 vanilla boosters and 4 perfect defenses, you removed more then half of your lineup. More boosters reduce the chance for attackers but fewer fighters attack Rearguards regularly so you can still do fine with fewer attackers.

Grade 2’s are very flexible, with nothing bad about them. I guess though they don’t make Grade 2’s with good effects nowadays.

In case you are wondering, the beset odds at riding up without error is a 13:11:9 raito. However, most people are satisfied with a 1% decrease and instead go with a 14:11:8 ratio. This standard is widely accepted as the best, and many of my decks feature this amoutn as well.

Grade 3

Some decks come with Grade 3’s which gain effects when you check Grade 3’s. The ratios for this deck starts at 10 Grade 3’s. Some people don’t like so many grade 3’s as they can’t guard with them, but these decks should contain S-intercepts, 4 perfect guards, card switchers, and anything else to balance out the lower amount of shield. In fact, a specific RP deck has 17 Grade 3’s. An advantage that grade 3’s give other then drive checking them is that these decks are good resource builders as you do not need to pay to use most of these effects.

Grade 0

Red Show MillyLastly, Grade 0’s. Grade 0’s and Grade 3’s are the two biggest ratio crushers. Grade 3 because you want to drive check them, Grade 0 for…what? Really, You shouldn’t put any more then 17 Grade 0’s, but some new people want to fit them in. The biggest target for Grade 0’s is this so called succubus on the left. This and Rock the Wall and anything else with this exact same effect. Why is it run? To build soul? Argh, that is the worst reason to use it. Grade 0’s are for defense, not for some silly soul building. Speeding up your soul by one isn’t going to much, and you have much better luck using another card. All megablast units have a move to soul clan card for them, use that. Any other soulcharging card is better. Even the clans these two come from, there are about ten other ways to bring more soul. This card is for defence for that clan since they have bad hand management, but even then, those clans don’t care. The soulcharge is just a small bonus, but it should be the primary reason for stuffing one in.

In short:
More Grade 0 is not for soul. More Grade 0 is for defense.
More Grade 3 is not for more attack. More Grade 3 is for Trigger checks.

Trigger Ratios

The simple answer on what trigger ratio would befit a deck would be to say: It depends. And it really does, but there are reasons why some decks use this many triggers and others just this much.

The basic ratio for all trial decks is just 4 of each. This serves it’s purpose; an equal chance for all triggers to activate. Nothing wrong with it, but nothing outstanding either. So, here is the explanation of all Triggers, it’s up to you if you want to put them in.

Heal : As I’ve said, put 4, no questions asked.

Critical : Most Decks have this. It’s easily the best trigger to get on a Drive check. It’s like having two attacks land at the same time. Also, even if your opponent blocks the vanguard, you can give it to your Rearguard and force even more shield. This is very useful against Limit Breakers as they are now more wary of taking a hit at 4 damage. In fact, putting more then 4 Criticals causes your opponent to be cautious in general unlike if you had other triggers. And they mess up damage all over the place in general.

However it is only useful in drive checks, and it is kind of like focusing your attacks on a couple of points. If your opponent perfect guards when you attacked with everything else then it was all for nothing. And because it’s a Critical Trigger, we all get the tendency to attack the Vanguard with it. Therefore, if you were planning on attacking a RG now you just suddenly can’t. Sometimes that extra damage can be beneficial to the opponent, as it allows more resources to attack back. And usually with that extra damage your heals no longer work.
Best recommended for: Narukami, Spike Bros, and other fast and strong attacking clans
Not recommended for: Those that are better off with Stand Triggers.

Stand : The less impressive Trigger. While they serve the same damage without guards, it’s less powerful as now that the opponent can use a lower amount of guard(Because the standed unit isn’t boosted). And getting a stand trigger is the same as a critical in damage check. Plus, Stands are situational cards. One glaring problem with stands is that they allow the opponent to get the damage they want. Criticals can cause the opponent to take or lose one more then they intend, but stands still give one damage. Stands allow the opponent to choose between two evils.

Stands however is a fun card to pull. In the right situation, a Stand can allow an Alice to go through or an Overlord to blast all the Rearguards. That’s because it’s unexpected. This said, Stands are for pressure. They destroy Rearguards and punches Vanguards with itty bitty strikes to tire their resources. And on-hit effects are much better as you can push more then once. Nova’s are great at this because not only do they have 11k VG they also have 11k RG, and this is one of the few times an 11k is better then a 10k. Dimension Police use stands for their on-hit effects. The best time to get a stand trigger is against a Perfect guard.
Best recommended for: Nova Grapplers, Dimension Police, Pale Moon and other clans with pressuring units.
Not recommended for: Narukami, Spike Bros, and anything you full Crit to.

Draw : Versatility is the best way to describe Draws. They always work, no matter what. If you damage check them you might get a card that will let you make it through the turn. It is a free +1 in hand advantage, allowing to call more units. It also helps to resync your deck if you need to. Decks with heavy minus benefit from Draw triggers greatly. Also, if your planning on running 7 or less Grade 3’s then 6 or more draw Triggers can work to get it.

Being 5k is the biggest reason why people aren’t running any more then 8. That 5k is just like another Grade 1 or 2, not a grade 0. You might even need with the card you draw, and that nullifies the whole purpose of trigger defense! So triggers can cut your total Shield in half. If you see OTT’s massive hand, in reality most of them are 5k shields. Draw triggers can mess up the trigger phasing. It does not speed up the opponent’s game in any ways and actually causes you to deck out earlier.
Best recommended for: Very specific decks.
Not recommended for: Every other deck.

Notice when when you want a trigger. You only want Heal triggers when you have equal or more daamge then your opponent. You don’t want to Draw Draw triggers, but any other time is great. Criticals and Stands work only in drive checks, but are acceptable if you draw them(for shield). Keep in mind how many triggers you want to activate in damage check vs drive check.

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